The lush mountains enclose the city from all sides as the Eternal Spring sun beats down at a consistent 80 degrees year round. Salsa music resonates from a nearby store where an elderly couple share a dance and also a bottle of Aguardiente. Colombia’s only Metro system efficiently mobilizes once forgotten workers from the poorer areas of the city. Tropical birds dart through the clear blue skies as friends take an afternoon stroll beneath the shade of the tree lined boulevards.

20 years ago however, the scene could not have been more different. With murder and kidnapping a daily occurrence, there was undoubtedly little cause for optimism in Medellin. In those dark times Colombia’s second biggest city was run by the Medellin Cartel and the infamous drug lord Pablo Escobar. Every life was consequently effected in one way or another. To this day families still grieve the loss of close friends or relatives who were innocently caught up in the misery.

When put into that context, the urban regeneration of Medellin through innovation is undoubtedly astounding. Perhaps then this is why the Paisas (residents of Medellin) always have a smile on their faces. They have seen devastation, but live every day grateful for the new life that they have been rewarded. Every new day is a gift from God. They are living in a bright future that they never dared to dream would be possible.

Back in 2013 the Wall Street Journal awarded Medellin the prestigious title of the most innovative city in the world. Spending any time in the city you are likely to be told that fact on countless occasions; to the locals though this was international recognition for the hard work and change that they had spent a generation aspiring to. To start from such humble beginnings and rise to compete with international cities such as New York and London is an unmistakable achievement.

Seeing what is possible the city are striving to raise the bar even higher. As the Metro system continues to expand, ambitious projects to run botanical gardens the length of the city break ground. Medellin isn’t satisfied in just being Colombia’s second city. Deep regional pride inspires rivalry with the capital in the same way as Barcelona shares with Madrid. Like Barcelona, Medellin transforms through innovation and aspires to be the envy of its capital in terms of modernisation and urban regeneration.

While the beaches of Cartagena and Santa Marta remain a draw for cruise ships, and Bogota as a centre for international business, Medellin, isolated between the mountains, is geographically cut off from the rest of the country. Tourism was virtually non-existent here until recently and the residents are still coming to terms with how their new found popularity can further their economy. To some, the interest and sense of confusion from the locals as to why you are here can feel strange. Elderly couples stare at the unusual clothes and customs of their foreign visitors. To many, you are probably the first non-Colombian they will meet. School girls giggle at your presence and a young couple thrust their baby into your arms to capture a photo of this noteworthy experience.

Medellin is one of the few cities left where visitors can still claim to be travellers as opposed to tourists. To some, the absence of an established tourist infrastructure puts them out of their comfort zone. You won’t find a McDonalds on every street corner, nor many places open at all on Sundays. The more experienced travellers see this as one of its major draws. The city is not afraid to celebrate its culture and refuses to conform to globalisation. Medellin’s innovation into a new identity will be defined on its own terms and will stay true to its roots and proud history. It is a proud city in transition, running with hope and optimism towards a brighter future.